List of Illustrations .......................................... ix
Acknowledgments ................................................ xi
Note to the Reader ............................................. xv
Preface ..................................................... xvii
Introduction: theory at home and in the field ................... i
1. Dharamsala: a resting place to pass through ................. 32
2. "There is a tension in our hearts": constructing
the rich cultural heritage of tibet ......................... 57
3. Taking refuge in (and from) india: film songs, angry
mobs, and other exilic pleasures and fears ................. 101
4. The west as surrogate shangri-la: rock and roll and
rangzen as style and ideology .............................. 144
5. The nail that sticks up gets hammered down: making
modern tibetan music ....................................... 175
6. "Little jolmo bird in the willow grove": crafting
tibetan song lyrics ........................................ 207
7. A peek through ragged tent flaps and heaven's door:
concerts that rupture and bond ............................. 234
Conclusion: echoes, cycles, and their implications ............ 263
Notes ......................................................... 271
Glossary ...................................................... 289
Bibliography .................................................. 291
Index ......................................................... 309
Illustrations
Map
Dharamsala in its geopolitical context ......................... 37
Figures
1. The village of Naddi and the Dauladar Range ................ xxi
2. Early morning in the streets of McLeod Ganj ................. 39
3. Ritual bonfire the night before the New Year ................ 47
4. Dharamsala's chang ma greeting a wedding party with
beer and song ............................................... 58
5. Boys performing a drum dance at the Tibetan Children's
Village ..................................................... 77
6. Music teacher accompanying children on the Tibetan lute ..... 83
7. Women enjoying traditional round dances in Dharamsala's
temple plaza on New Year's Day .............................. 91
8. Pilgrim from Lhasa singing on the steps of Dharamsala's
main temple ................................................. 93
9. Thubten, Yak Band leader, singer, and rhythm guitarist ..... 103
10.The Yak Band's Gaddi neighbor smoking a hookah on
his porch .................................................. 104
11.Gaddi women dancing for the Dalai Lama on his
sixtieth birthday .......................................... 120
12.Monk and youths at an "international music" shop in
Bodha, Nepal ............................................... 146
13.Students at the Tibetan Homes Foundation in Mussoorie,
India, preparing letters to their Western sponsors ......... 161
14.Youth holding "Independence Only" banner in Dharamsala's
annual Tibetan Uprising Day procession ..................... 165
15.Paljor, Keila, and Phuntsok warming up for a concert ....... 173
16.Paljor, Yak Band guitarist, singer, and composer ........... 182
17.Yak Band drummer Ngodup with young fans in Dharamsala ...... 198
18.Original cover of the Yak Band's 1995 cassette Rangzen ..... 201
19.The Yak Band's concert tent in a field at the Mundgod
refugee settlement ......................................... 237
20.Yaks working on the next concert's set list over a pot
of Tibetan soup ............................................ 243
21.Refueling "Shiva", the Yak Band's generator ................ 249
22.Monks buying Yak Band cassettes at the Kalachakra
in Mundgod ................................................. 251
23.The Yak Band performing at Dharamsala's main temple
in celebration of the Dalai Lama's sixtieth birthday ....... 259
24.Dharamsala concert audience accommodating the start
of the 1995 monsoon ........................................ 260
25.Arms linked in a traditional circle dance .................. 265
26.Tibetan refugee youth at Chaksam-pa's music camp in
Pacifica, California ....................................... 269
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